Matagorda Bay

Sixty miles southwest of Houston lay an unspoiled wildlife preserve where visitors are treated to an unrivaled look at hundreds of migratory birds as they pass through the central flyway. The tiny Matagorda Peninsula near the mouth of the Colorado River sits on the southeast Texas Gulf coastline and separates Matagorda Bay from the Gulf of Mexico. Nature lovers find the spot a restorative getaway that offers dazzling views of exotic birds, fresh and salt water fishing and a wealth of recreational opportunities for individuals as well as families. Heralded by outdoor enthusiasts for its beauty, Matagorda Bay and vicinity boasts a rich history dating back to 10,000 B.C. during the early Paleo-Indian period. The region was home to the Karankawa Indians during the late 1600s when French explorer Robert de La Salle lost his ship, as well as his life, to mutineers. The area played an important role in Texas’ independence and later served as a camp for German prisoners of war during World War II. But it’s not the locale’s dynamic history that beckons flocks of anglers, bird watchers, and vacationers from near and distant shores. And it’s not the glistening sand beaches and shimmering ocean waves nearby that keep vacationers coming back, although they clearly are part of the allure. Visitors go to Matagorda Bay to camp, boat, kayak, fish, view wildlife and enjoy the breathtaking view that encompasses 67 miles of unspoiled coastline, much of it accessible only by boat. They arrive in droves to see why the Houston Press calls Matagorda Bay the Best Weekend Getaway and to observe the myriad varieties of birds that inhabit or migrate through the area. Preserving Nature The real draw is the 1,600-acre Matagorda Bay Nature Preserve, a protected estuary located a few minutes south of the town of Matagorda. The Lower Colorado River Authority (LCRA), a quasi-governmental conservation and reclamation district, acquired the property in 2001 to preserve the area’s natural resources and to provide tourists with educational programs, recreation and a rare and awe-inspiring view of nature at its best. The nature park inhabits two miles of the Gulf of Mexico shoreline and two miles of Colorado River frontage, as well as hundreds of acres of coastal marshes and dunes. An LCRA-operated natural science center provides local school children and park visitors with lessons about waves and tides, density of salt water and fresh water, and the human impact on dunes. The hands-on lessons include material about estuaries, the area’s marshlands, woodlands and coastal prairies and the resident and migratory wildlife, as well as the delicate ecosystems that nurture it. “We believe that educating young people about nature and helping to put them in a position to experience the outdoors will help create an appreciation for our area’s resources,” explained Carolyn Nelson, manager of LCRA’s natural science centers. The LCRA will open an exhibit hall next spring to showcase a model of the Colorado River as it meets the Gulf of Mexico, as part of an ongoing effort to expand educational and recreational opportunities for locals and tourists alike. Outdoor enthusiasts who enjoy kayaking, canoeing and hiking along the park’s 2.5 mile course will benefit from educational tours as they take an up-close-and-personal view of the spot’s birds and wildlife such as armadillos and raccoons, added Susan Baxter-Harwell, park district supervisor. The 22-mile beach offers a nearby RV park, beach combing and other amenities. The park’s pristine splendor makes it an appealing backdrop for one of its most popular activities: bird watching. It sits smack-center in the central flyway, one of four principal migratory bird routes in North America and part of the Great Texas Coastal Birding Trail, providing visitors with unparalleled glimpses of 300 species of birds, including many on the endangered species list. Matagorda County is one of the top spots in the nation to see birds and has been a repeat winner of the Audubon Society’s prestigious Christmas Bird Count during the past 15 years. This year’s Mad Island Marsh Christmas bird count for Matagorda County will take place December 15. More information is available on the Audubon website www.audobon.org “Basically, the park is where the river meets the ocean in a mix of salt and fresh water marshes right in the migratory path,” explained Warren Meyer, president of Recreation Resource Management, the Phoenix, Arizona-based firm that manages the park’s public recreation facilities and RV park. “The preserve is slightly inland from the coast and you can sit in the campground and see an incredible number of birds. There’s also an observation tower nearby to watch them. It’s hugely popular to use birding lists like a bingo card and check off the types of birds you see.” Matagorda, which means “thick brush” in Spanish, was named for the canebrakes that used to line the shores. These days, lush marshlands serve as ideal nesting areas for the birds, which find the Colorado River, bays and stream a source of food and habitat. Rainfall tops an average of 40 inches annually and provides a fresh water supply in a salt-water environment. Migratory birds begin arriving in Matagorda between March and May and some stay through the year. New flocks arrive between September and November for the winter. During these months, birders can view hundreds of varieties of birds and may spot a gannet, the largest seabird in North America, or a Jaeger, another impressive seabird. January and February are the raptors’ breeding period and the birds don’t disappoint observers with their impressive flying stunts. Winter birders also may catch sight of a bald eagle or snow goose. Birds such as the Black Crowned Night Heron and the White Faced Ibis can be seen throughout the year. During fall, Matagorda Bay visitors might very well see the sky fill with Monarch butterflies as they move through the flyway from breeding grounds in the north to winter in Mexico. “It’s spectacular,” enthuses Meyer. “It puts all those butterfly museums to shame.” Camping Recreation Resource Management operates the new 70-site Matagorda Bay RV Park, located at the mouth of the Colorado River and a short stride from beaches both with and without vehicular access. Open year-round, the RV park features full-hookup concrete pads with electricity, water and sewer, contemporary bathrooms with showers, a coin-operated laundry, and a convenience store. The main preserve and RV park are ADA accessible. There are a plethora of outdoor activities for nature lovers, including walking paths frequented with picnic tables and wildlife watching stations. Guests may opt to kayak along a 2.5 mile course, swim in the Gulf, picnic in the dunes, or fish along the shore or from three public piers. Fishing “The biggest draw year-round is the fishing,” asserts Meyer, who grew up in Houston and vacationed at Matagorda Bay during his youth. He knows firsthand the area’s fishing potential and says seasoned anglers along with learners will find pleasure and convenience in nearby fresh and salt water fishing posts, including piers inside the RV park. “You can have two or three different fishing experiences at the same spot.” For those who wish to enlarge their fishing experience, Captain James Arnold, who operates Day on the Bay Services, has some options. A lifelong resident of the area, Arnold offers shrimp and oyster expeditions on a commercial fishing boat he built with his own hands. “I teach them everything I can about shrimp and oystering and how to harvest seafood products,” says Arnold, who made his livelihood as a commercial fisherman for many years. “My goal is to teach them something about our bay and utilize my experiences as a teaching tool. They’re absolutely thrilled and amazed,” he says of the feedback he receives. But shrimp and oysters aren’t the only seafood to lure anglers. Redfish, crabs and speckled sea trout are common catches in the waters off the bay and gulf and even novices are likely to reel in something fishy. Those who prefer deep sea fishing may enjoy casting for grouper, red snapper, amberjack, Wahoo, black drum and more. Arnold provides guided fishing trips, bird watching tours by boat and kayak, photography tours and estuary tours on kayak trails he personally marked, as well as “anything else anyone would like to do.” For first-time visitors, he recommends the bird watching and bay estuary tour. “When they do this, they learn the history of the area and bay, plus they’re able to use the birds in the estuary. The birds are the most appealing aspect of the tour, especially in the fall and winter.” Only 25 miles of the 60-mile shoreline are accessible by vehicle, so boating is the best option for a bird’s eye view of the protected area. Besides, says Arnold, boaters are likely to see flipping dolphins and other marine animals in the waterways. The 67-year-old government retiree says he can’t imagine living anywhere else. ------------------ A schedule of seminars and events at Matagorda Bay is available by e-mailing [email protected] or calling 1-800-776-5272, ext. 3810. For details about the nature preserve, birding and the RV park, go to www.matagordabayrv.com or call 979-863-7120. To make $25 per night (seasonal and monthly discounts available) RV reservations, call the Texas Parks and Wildlife Reservation Center at 512-389-8900. There is a $5 fee for each reservation.