US 2: The Great Northern

While many tout the virtues of traveling through the warm climes of the south, the vintage Americana of the rural Midwestern plains, or the wayward fun of life up and down our beloved coasts, let us not forget about the north. US Highway 2 (a.k.a., the Great Northern) does these northern states justice, traversing them from Washington to Maine with a style all its own. Named for the once great railroad line the route mimics, the Great Northern offers a rugged, cross-country exercise with some tough geographic, and at times oh-so-lonesome stretches of terrain. The route straddles the Canadian border but, like its more southern counterparts, it crosses the continent from west to east. We think you'll like the contrasts to be found between the Pacific Northwest, the lofty heights of the Rocky Mountain regions, the open plains of North Dakota, the deep woods of the Upper Peninsula, across a series of Great Lakes, and finally a look at Canada as you make your way to the eastern tip of the United States. Our journey begins in the medium-sized town of Everett, Washington, just east of Puget Sound. This is a good excuse to dip down to Seattle on busy Highway 5, but we say it's too early into the trip for such detours. No, stay the course, there's good stuff ahead. Like much of the region, lumber is king in these parts, with forested landscapes and towns dependent on the constant supply for the mills and factories. It's not long before you enter the Cascade Mountain Range, with delicious views all along Highway 2. We recommend a stop at towering Wallace Falls for some of the best views around. You can stay in your vehicle as you climb mighty Stevens Pass. At the summit you can pull over and take in the dazzling scenery and even get in some awesome skiing, as well. Bavarian-inspired Leavenworth is a popular day trip along the route, complete with a re-created German-style village chock-full of shops and more than a few places to gorge on bratwursts. The apple farms of the Wenatchee Valley soon come into view along Highway 2, with surrounding towns capitalizing on the abundant crop. Moses Coule, a picturesque gorge on the eastern edge of the state, provides travelers with magnificent views along the highway. We can thank FDR's "New Deal" for one of North America's greatest engineering feats, the Grand Coulee Dam, a mile-long barrier built to hold back the mighty Columbia River. It's an amazing sight, so be sure to take a tour. Spokane is a nice town, with lovely views of Spokane Falls, a near-100-year-old carousel, gondola, and interesting rides found in Riverfront Park. The meandering waterways of Pend Orielle and Kootenai Rivers force Highway 2 into a zig-zag path for several stretches along the state's "panhandle." We don't mind, since the views out the window rarely disappoint. Sadly, however, the highway doesn't linger in the state. Still, the year-round resort town of Sandpoint, located on Lake Pend Orielle makes the most of the terrain. Travelers end their visit to the state via a massive 450' bridge across the border into Montana. Montana offers some of the most compelling and uncrowded views found anywhere in the country. For those who've never been, this might be the time to slow the trip down a tad to take it all in. Travelers get their first real taste of how good it can be at Kootenai Falls, just outside of Troy. On the way to Glacier National Park, the marquee spot in all the state, travelers head through Lolo National Forest, which provides a glimpse of the natural beauty yet to come. Whatever you do, get your rig to the well-named, Going-to-the-Sun Road, which is the heart and soul of the park and the best access point to stunning views. It'll take a few days to get the full feel of this massive park (boat tours, amazing hiking, biking, etc.), but we recommend trying anyway. Those looking for a historical look at the plight of the Blackfeet Indian Tribe should spend time in the town of Browning, visiting the Museum of the Plains Indian and the Montana Wildlife Museum. Signs of the Native Americans who once ruled these lands are fairly common throughout the eastern portion of the state. While no Grand Coulee, the upcoming Fort Peck Dam still ranks as one of North America's largest dams. North Dakota is the land of Lewis and Clark, Sakakawea, Teddy Roosevelt, Sitting Bull and Gen. George Custer. Rich in history, North Dakota provided trading and trapping for the early settlers. It is a state known for its flat, endless horizon and its wildlife abounds everywhere. In the Northern Great Plains, the quaint towns and farmsteads lend an American charm. One of North Dakota's most beautiful destinations is the International Peace Garden. From Rugby, the Garden can be reached via Route 3 to 281 through Dunseith. Since 1932, nestled on the U.S. and Canadian borders of North Dakota and Manitoba in a symbol of friendship, lies this "One-of-a-Kind" International Peace Garden. We recommend a slight detour south of Highway 2 along Hwy. 1804 to Fort Buford, a former military installation with just enough left of its original structure to make it worth seeing. Although you're now way off the course, another 40 minutes southeast sits Theodore Roosevelt National Park, a representation of the Dakota landscape that could serve as a nice spot for an impromptu picnic. Back on Highway 2, the town of Rugby boasts the "Geographic Center of North America." Pushing on, Devil's Lake offers a glimpse of water and quality fishing to boot. Just south of town on Hwy. 57 is wonderfully preserved and restored Fort Totten. Though the town of Grand Forks' population barely reaches 50,000, it is a booming metropolis compared to the small settlements along this length of US 2. A university town (Univ. of North Dakota), Grand Forks happens to have a lot going on, including the venerable Empire Theatre, an above average art museum, and numerous lively places to eat and drink. At its heart, northern Minnesota is lumber country. After all, this is where the legend of woodsman extraordinaire, Paul Bunyan, began. (Editor's Note: This region is also covered extensively in the Great River Road section of this book). Oh, and let us not forget about all those lakes (10,000, right?) that Minnesotans like to remind us about. Consider this portion of Highway 2, which travels just south of the dense Chippewa National Forest. Just outside of the city of Duluth is Hawk Ridge - a wonderful spot to see thousand of birds of prey in peak season. Press on to Duluth, an unexpected scenic gem, and ultimately to the shores of Lake Superior. Cross the beautiful Aerial Lift Bridge, which can be raised and lowered depending on boat traffic, to access the harbor section of the city. Not only do you get the pleasant views of one of their fine Great Lakes (Lake Superior), but there are clean, sandy beaches to-boot. The parade of boats coming and going in the harbor makes for fun viewing, too. The city center features several nice shops and eateries, as well as a handful of museums (railroads, ore boat), casinos, an aquarium, and zoo. You'll be heading through a part of Wisconsin that even many state residents have rarely ventured to. With the Great Northern forging a route at the near-northern tip of the state, there's not much in the way of the medium-sized cities found around these here parts. No, this is a different sort of country altogether, heavily forested, with small settlements dotting the highway as it crosses the region. Take looping Highway 13, which hugs the Lake Superior shoreline, to get a view of the water. A detour here provides you a chance to visit the Apostle Islands National Lakeshore, a collection of islands famous for kayaking, shipwrecks, lighthouses, and one of the country's largest black bear populations. Hopping over the bridge from Duluth on Highway 2 takes travelers into its sister city of Superior, another busy port town, albeit smaller, with its own appeal. Highway 2 and 13 eventually meet at the town of Ashland, distinguished by its Mega Soo Line Ore Dock and nice museum devoted to the region's rough-and-tumble history. Hwys. 53 and 51 connect this part of the country to the rest of Wisconsin through Altoona, to Madison and through Wausau and Oshkosh to Milwaukee. A northern detour up to 50' Superior Falls along Highway 122 is a great way to end your visit to Northern Wisconsin. Those looking for a Michigan detour might consider Highway 127, which recently superceded legendary Highway 27 (established in 1926) as the most scenic way to travel north-south right down the middle of the state. Regardless of its name, the route continues as a gateway for southern residents to travel north for terrific skiing, trips to Canada, and Mackinac Island. Although Highway 127 runs all the way to Chattanooga, Tennessee, we'll confine our tour to the Michigan portion. For much of the northern portion of the state, the route follows Interstate 75. The northern portion of Michigan, known as the Upper Peninsula (UP), is remote and unspoiled, compared to the rest of the state. The UP is sparsely inhabited but maintains its role as a fertile mining and logging region. The fishing is also noteworthy, with the somewhat narrow stretch (okay, peninsula) wedged between Lakes Michigan and Superior. Highway 2 leads travelers along the Lake Michigan portion, with most of it cut through the densely wooded National Forests, which seems to stretch out in every direction. The well-named town of Iron Mountain is a former mining boomtown that inspires above-ground reasons for a visit. The Cornish Pump and Mining Museum admirably captures the region's rich mining history. However, if you're lucky (and daring enough) to visit in winter, you can see the ski jumping competitions held here. Keep going and 70' Piers Gorge in nearby Norway delivers compelling views of the Menominee River below. Up the road, the shore town of Escanaba and its historic lighthouse are both worth visits. And true to form, don't expect to get out of the UP without another national forest (Hiawatha) to navigate through. Travelers make their way to southern Michigan via the famed "eighth wonder of the world," Mackinac Bridge. This bridge connects the upper and lower peninsulas of Michigan over the five-mile-wide Straits of Mackinac, where Lake Michigan and Lake Huron meet. The Mackinac Bridge's towers are 552 feet above the water and it has a center span of 3,800 feet. The Bridge is one of the world's most beautiful bridges and it's the longest suspension bridge in the Americas, with a total length of 8,614 feet suspended. The Mighty Mac also unites the communities of Mackinaw City and St. Ignace. Nearby Mackinac Island is one of the Midwest's most beloved spots (especially for honeymooners), although not for car lovers. Sorry, no motorized vehicles are allowed; bikes are the chief mode of transport around the island. The island features wonderful beaches, fudge shops, small town resort fare, and the awesome Grand Hotel, now more than 100 years old and still dazzling. A drive further south on Interstate 75 brings you to Roscommon County. South of the town of Grayling, Highway 127 becomes your route of choice. Located in the center of Michigan's Lower Peninsula, the main attractions here are Houghton Lake, Michigan's largest inland lake; Higgins Lake, considered the 6th most beautiful lake in the world and Lake St. Helen, 563 acres of great bluegill fishing. Roscommon County offers some of the best fall outdoor activities in Michigan and is breathtakingly beautiful in the fall! The biggest prize on the route is Lansing, home to Michigan State University. It also has numerous gardens, cool transportation museum, tours of General Motors, a zoo, Great Lakes Folk Festival held every August, and typical college town atmosphere. Other route highlights include the Michigan Space Center (south of Jackson), Michigan Speedway (slight detour to Highway 50, near Napoleon), and beautiful Cambridge State Park, near the Ohio border. Though a fun detour it is, neither Highway 75 nor Highway 127 are the Great Northern, where we started. Back on US 2, at the Canadian border from St. Ignace, the road suddenly shoots north as it makes it way out of Michigan's UP and into Canada. Sault Ste. Marie, Ontario, welcomes you to our northern neighbor in the form of a busy port town with a large suspension bridge of its own, awaiting visitors. Expect a short interrogation at the various border checkpoints when entering the country. The switch to the Canadian part of the drive also means picking up Hwy. 17, a new route to follow along Lake Huron. A quick detour onto St. Joseph Island provides a nice tour of Fort St. Joseph. Expect to make another directional decision further up along Hwy. 17 when faced with a detour to Manitoulin Island, just south of Massey. The island offers lots of beautiful beaches, terrific fishing, and splendid views of Lake Huron. Those looking for a larger city to explore will appreciate the timely location of Sudbury (pop. 160,000). Though far from a tourist haven, it features most any kind of business or service you may have been missing since you tackled the UP portion of the Great Northern. Though the area around Mattawa and the Algonquin Provincial Park confirms the traveler's sense of isolation, there's plenty of unspoiled wilderness to be distracted by. The town of Petawawa, just north of Hwy. 17 on Hwy. 41, is home to several installations of the Canadian armed forces, and most notably for tourists, the wonderfully engaging Canadian Forces Airborne Museum. However, an even better museum is the nearby Canadian Museum of Civilizations, in the town of Hull, which traces in great detail the country's native populace. Although not technically part of the Great Northern, the fine city of Ottawa is just a short southern detour along Hwy. 417. For the rest of us, it's time to follow Hwy. 50 before moving over to Hwy. 148, which takes us to Montreal, a booming metropolis with more than one million residents. As such, it's got everything you could ask for - cool museums, wonderful restaurants, the best shopping anywhere on the Great Northern, and a truly cosmopolitan feel. After enjoying yourself here, Hwy. 15 leads us out of town and out of Canada, back to the United States and trusty Hwy. 2 into Vermont. The Green Mountain State's first no-brainer stop is within the Lake Champlain Islands, a great way to reconnect with the States. Surrounded by mountains and bodies of water, we recommend a lazy day here full of fruit picking, boating, or just taking it easy after your Canadian escapade. At the southern edge of the island chain sits the town of Burlington, home to the University of Vermont and one of our favorite museums in the nation, the pop culture-obsessed, Williams Hall Art Museum of Kitsch. Nearby Shelburne Farms and a national historic landmark, Shelburne Museum, should not be missed. The state's chief export, Ben & Jerry's Ice Cream, is not only a local treasure, but a major tourist attraction in Waterbury Center. Do as the locals do and get a factory tour - and some quality ice cream for when you resume your trek east. Montpelier, the tiny state capital, provides a wonderful stop along your drive on Hwy. 2. We appreciate the town's funky appeal, with a mix of fun and eclectic shops, as well as beautiful 154-acre park, near the capital. It provides a lasting impression of a truly wonderful state. As odds would have it, the Great Northern only slices through the narrow, northern tip of New Hampshire. It's our loss for sure, but something you can no doubt rectify with a lengthier visit through the state on your return trip. While it's there, Highway 2 does entertain with the sight of the White Mountains and the national forest that dominates (in a good way!) this portion of the drive. The best recommended stop is the town of Jefferson, home to several fun roadside attractions of a man-made variety; enterprising Santa's Village and Six-Gun City, where you and your crew can live out all your Old West fantasies. We like Maine for its laid-back style and engaging personalities. As they say here, Maine is a state of mind, a state that we would label as distinctly mellow. Towns such as Bethel, Wilton, and Framington help break up the woodsy landscape, before you hit the true home run in one of our favorite places, Bangor, a surprisingly old and fun city along the trail. Established in 1791, the city works hard to maintain its historic appeal. For instance, its symphony orchestra (established in 1896) is the country's oldest, while the Penobscot Theatre Company performs in a building dating back to 1888. The art scene here is vibrant; not bad for a town that was once the lumber capital of the world. Near Bangor is one of the most attractive national parks you'll find, Acadia National Park. It's located on Mt. Desert Island and you can access it via Highway 3. Acadia is beloved for its mix of salty air, wind-swept mountains, and the rugged good looks of the shoreline. Maine's coastline is stunning, especially in contrast with the park's dense forests. However, our absolute favorite spot within the 41,000-acre island is Cadillac Mountain, the East Coast's highest point. Afterwards, be sure to hit Jordan House Pond for a spot of tea or venture out on one of the park's many hiking or bike trails. Top off the day with a fresh-caught lobster in the adjacent resort town of Bar Harbor, one of the vacation playgrounds of the East Coast's elite and a fitting spot for you to toast your epic cross-country trip, while admiring the view of Frenchman Bay.