Two long-abandoned stretches of railroad have been converted into some of West Virginia’s best hiking and biking trails

From the pages of Camping Life Magazine

When the railroads unraveled earlier in the 20th century as the dominant means of transporting goods across the United States, thousands of miles of track were abandoned. Left to rust for decades, the iron ribbons of many lines have since been removed and recycled. However, a number of the routes traversed by big locomotives in bygone days are once again bustling with activity. No, there’s not a railroad revival underway. Instead, the old rail beds have been converted into wide, gently sloped trails — providing recreational access to some of the most scenic regions in the nation.

In West Virginia, two impressive rail trails have been developed in the last decade, both of them linking up with superb camping facilities. In the upper part of the state, the North Bend Rail Trail winds across 72 miles of countryside near Parkersburg. Biking is the most popular activity on the trail, but hikers and horseback riders enjoy the route as well. The Greenbrier River Trail (southeastern West Virginia) is similar to North Bend in one respect — length. At 76 miles it’s just four miles longer than North Bend. But beyond nearly equivalent lengths, the trails are quite different.

NORTH BEND

The North Bend Rail Trail might be most famous for the 13 tunnels on the old route that provided locomotives and their cargo a painless passage through the steep limestone hills. You aren’t likely to see a horseback rider in the dim interior of one of the 10 tunnels that are still used, but you’ll find plenty of bikers and hikers gazing up at the arched subways of stone. The numerous tunnels on the route caught the attention of Mark Twain, who once described the North Bend route as the “Appalachian Subway.”

Two of these tunnels are particularly interesting. Tunnel No. 19, also known as the Silver Run tunnel, is the source of local legend. Early in the 1900s, a young woman was traveling from Clarksburg to Parkersburg to be married when the train she was riding wrecked in Tunnel No. 19. The bride-to-be crawled to a house near the tracks and took shelter under its porch, where she soon passed on.

Her body was eventually discovered, and soon after this awful occurrence, several people in the area reported seeing a ghostly figure wearing a white wedding dress wandering  the tracks near the tunnel. The ghost of Tunnel No. 19 has also been sighted by a number of locomotive engineers — their observations are recorded in railroad records. How’s that for a campfire ghost story?

Tunnel No. 21 (Eaton’s Tunnel) isn’t host to a ghost but nonetheless has an important place in the rail trail’s history. When railroads converted from steam to diesel after World War II, many of the tunnels weren’t high enough to accommodate the taller diesels. To remedy the situation, some tunnels were “daylighted,” which involved blasting away the entire “roof” of the tunnel to give the larger engines passage.

Others were “lowered.” By lowering the “floor” of the tunnel, the overall height increased, making room for the big diesels. In 1962, railroad workers were lowering Tunnel No. 21. It was a tricky and dangerous process as tunnels were prone to collapse during the lowering process unless carefully stabilized. Eaton’s Tunnel crumbled during the process, trapping three men, a bulldozer, backhoe and dump truck under the rubble.

The railroad then blasted a new tunnel through the ridge just a short distance from the original tunnel (built in 1867). Remnants of the old tunnel, including the top of the brick archway, can be seen near the west end of the “new” tunnel. If you’re itching to have a look for yourself, there’s a primitive path on the south side of the rail trail not far from the west end of Tunnel No. 21 leading to the original, rubble-plugged tunnel.

With eight more tunnels to explore and a host of other attractions, there’s no shortage of adventures awaiting North Bend Rail Trail visitors. The question is how to go about accessing them. Of course, it’s possible to pedal the entire length of the trail, but some segments aren’t fully developed and make a rougher passage for visitors.

EASY ACCESS

The portion of the trail adjacent to North Bend State Park has been carefully developed for easy access and travel, and the park is an excellent place to base camp for trail trekking by foot or bicycle. A spacious campground, pool and lodge with a surprisingly good restaurant are all found at North Bend. Bicycles are available for rent, and the park sponsors nature and recreation activities including rail-trail hikes and evening programs. The North Bend Trail is also notable for its scenery and wildlife.

It’s only one mile from North Bend State Park to the rail trail. A handy access trail links the two, providing an opportunity to enjoy the area’s deciduous forest and observe the whitetail deer abundant in the park. After pedaling to the rail trail, it’s time to make a choice. Do you travel east or west? Both directions have their attractions, but since most people embark on their treks in the morning and you don’t want the sun in your eyes, we advise heading west.

Less than a mile down the trail are the remnants of the town of Cornwallis. About a half-mile beyond Cornwallis the trail crosses a bridge over the North Fork of the Hughes River. While resting on the bridge, I saw a whitetail doe come down to drink from the river. She stood on the bank for a few minutes quenching her thirst, then went jumping and splashing away across the river like a grade-school girl on a hot summer afternoon.

Another mile beyond the bridge, you’ll pass through the remains of an old tunnel that was “daylighted” by blasting away its top. If you’re engrossed in pedaling, it’s possible to zip right through the roofless tunnel without noticing it.

SODA STOP

A little less than four miles out, your wheels spin into the little town of Cairo. While it might be tempting to pedal right through the little burg, Cairo is a  gem that deserves more than a passing glance. Once the thriving center of oil development that occurred on the surrounding hillsides, Cairo is now a quaint little village that’s gamely trying to revive itself with the help of rail-trail visitors.

Several interesting old buildings still stand in Cairo, one of which houses a well-stocked bike shop. If I were leading your entourage, though, I would save those attractions for later and head right to the little soda fountain down the street for a cold glass of lemonade. The proprietress has created an authentic 1950s-style establishment complete with polished bar and boldly checkered flooring. On a hot afternoon last summer, I wandered into the soda shop and felt as if I had found the proverbial oasis in the desert.

After a soda and a look around Cairo it’s time to head out for the haunted tunnel. Tunnel
No. 19, home of the infamous bridal ghost, is just three miles up the trail. It’s a good idea to keep your senses sharp on this segment of the trail, because there’s more life here than a ghost. Evidently area wildlife aren’t bothered by the wraith. I once spotted a female wild turkey leading her brood across the trail not far from the tunnel.

From the tunnel, it’s a seven-mile pedal back to North Bend State Park — if you can resist the temptation of more westward exploration. On completing the return trip, the highly ambitious can turn their wheels east from the park’s access trail and head out to the town of Ellenboro (about five miles away), where they’ll find food and small factories that produce glass and marble. Along the way there are three tunnels to wheel through, including the 577-foot long tunnel 12. Hobo Rock, a weeping wall of limestone with a basin-shaped depression that collects water, is found along the route from North Bend State Park to Ellenboro as well. True to its name, hobos used to stop at the spring and draw water from the limestone basin.

What’s to see beyond Ellenboro? Pedal far enough (another 15 miles) and you’ll find yourself in the pitch-black interior of Tunnel 6, the trail’s longest at 2297 feet.

There’s seemingly no end to the attractions along the North Bend Trail. However, it’s time to head south to see if North Bend’s sister trail can rival her appeal.

GREENBRIER TRAIL

While the North Bend trail is probably best suited for day-trips, the Greenbrier trail, though only passing through two tunnels, is conducive to end-to-end adventures that might include an overnight excursion or multiday expeditions. Whereas the North Bend trail crosses several rivers, the Greenbrier trail parallels the Greenbrier River for almost its entire length. In fact, trail managers have made special provisions for those who wish to hike or bike into primitive campsites along the trail. The sites are spaced roughly 10 miles apart, just the right length for families that might be pedaling with children. Those wanting to experience the Greenbrier trail via day trips can base their visit in one of the cabins or the campground at Watoga State Park, centrally located on the trail.

If you enjoy fishing, don’t forget to pack a rod and reel. The Greenbrier River boasts fine fishing for scrappy smallmouth bass, and the rail trail is one of the best ways to gain access to the river. Anglers can hike or bike from numerous access points to remote segments of the river, while those making  end-to-end rides can pop down to the bank from their campsites for a leisurely evening of bass fishing.

In the summer, the river is also perfect for swimming. The current is calm and the water refreshing but not too cold. Whether you hike or bike,  in fact, it’s a great idea to tuck a swimsuit into your pack — there’s nothing like an invigorating dip in the clear mountain water to renew weary muscles.

While the recreational opportunities and the serene beauty of the river trail capture the minds of most visitors, the history of the old rail route is certainly worthy of note. The railroad into the upper Greenbrier Valley was constructed early in the 20th century. Conceived primarily as a means of transporting lumber, this branch of the Chesapeake & Ohio Railway also became important for the conveyance of passengers.

In 1925, an extraordinary train wreck occurred at the Watoga Bridge (if you ride north from Seebert, across the river from Watoga State Park, the bridge is about four miles upstream). A boxcar loaded with bricks derailed while heading up the valley. The derailed car collided with the edge of the bridge, causing an entire span to collapse into the river. Four other rail cars dropped from the bridge, two of which were loaded with 200-pound bags of flour from a Kansas City mill that were destined for Italy.

You’ll not see any visible signs of the derailment when you cross the Watoga Bridge. Nonetheless, this bridge is one of my favorite features of the trail. Its weathered works provide a perfect backdrop for photos, and it’s a great aerial perch from which to watch smallmouth bass swimming in the waters below.

LUNCH BREAK

A Greenbrier River Trail highlight is the town of Marlinton, about 10 miles north of Seebert. The ride from Seebert to Marlinton makes an excellent day trip. If you leave Seebert in the morning, you’ll hit Marlinton in time for lunch at one of the town’s numerous restaurants. Right next to the trail, at the crossing of Highway 39 in Marlinton, is the visitor’s center — a great place to find detailed information about the river trail and other local attractions.

Roughly 25 miles up the river (and trail) from Marlinton is the town of Cass and the Cass Scenic Railroad State Park. Those making end-to-end trips on the trail typically start here in Cass so as to pedal downriver. Before heading out on the rail trail, though, you’ll undoubtedly want to spend some time at the state park — it features a turn-of-the-century train ride. Vintage steam locomotives tug excursion trains up a steep winding route that terminates at Bald Knob, the second highest point in West Virginia. Due to its high elevation (4842 feet) and harsh climate, Bald Knob nurtures a unique array of plants that are more typically found in the Canadian wilderness. The fact is, with all there is to see and do in the Cass area you might never make it to the rail trail.

The North Bend and Greenbrier rail trails share some common attributes, yet each is unique. It’s up to you to decide whether you prefer an antique railroad, riverside camping, fishing and superb scenery, or a ghost story, an authentic soda shop and specialty glass factories. Either way, you’ll find excellent camping facilities, gentle trails for the entire family and good-natured West Virginia hospitality while riding the rails.